寻酒记之伍德男爵

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说到选酒,最难选的是勃艮第,其次就是波尔多。


波尔多酒太多了,质量层次不齐,价格相差甚远。往往是遇到一款好喝的,价格却贵出预算,而价格便宜的却很难喝。


在中国市场,波尔多最出名,但也最鸡肋,市场上性价比高的波尔多少之又少,而灌装的,贴牌的,各类难喝的酒却随处可见。


也因此,波尔多我跑了6趟,平均每次待一周,每天3-4个从展会上筛选出来的酒庄,总共跑了112个酒庄,才终于选出了一家具有代表性的,且性价比超高的超级波尔多 – 伍德男爵。
在酒庄我们平行品尝了从2009年到2014年 6个年份的不同超波,每个年份,一喝下去年份特点非常鲜明,却都好喝。而实在是比较差的年份,比如17年,酒庄直接把酒液都卖给了波尔多酒商,自己不生产这个年份的酒。

说到波尔多,就是三个关键字:年份,混酿及橡木桶。一款好的波尔多,一定是具有年份特色的;葡萄品种的混酿比例根据年份的不同而不同;橡木桶用的即优雅又强壮,却不能太重。而CHATEAU VALADE 这个酒庄,恰是如此。


Chateau Castenet is an old place and winery in the little village of Auriolles in the “Entre deux mers” between Garonne river and Dordogne river. This place also have is own vineyard with 42 hectares. All this place which belong to Family Hoffman was taken by Mylene and Guilliaume Guennec, two wine specialists from Bordeau region. They take this place in 2010 and used their family knowledges and their experiences and their passion to vine and wine for create chateau VALADE wine.


波尔多这里属于温带海洋性气候,最大的问题是在葡萄的转色期进入雨季,那时乌云密布,赤霞珠们不能很好的成熟。所以,这里才要种上梅乐,小维多,马尔贝克等等生长季不同的葡萄品种,以应对每年“老天”不同的“脸色”。所以,你喝波尔多,最有意思的是喝他不同年份的差异,经验足够多时你能喝出那个年份哪一个月的雨下的多。

其实即使是成熟了,波尔多地区的赤霞珠单宁也是非常强劲也就是很涩很夹嘴,不知是那个聪明的酒庄发现了一个可以软化单宁的秘诀,那就是把葡萄酒放到225L的法国橡木桶中陈年一段时间,这样做不仅让波尔多葡萄酒变的更柔软易饮并且还能增加烤面包,香草等橡木带来的香气。
所以,一款经典的波尔多必须是用橡木桶熟成过,带有橡木桶香气的。

波尔多的红葡萄酒都是混酿,虽然赤霞珠的比例因为各种原因正在逐渐减少,但是左岸个大名庄中赤霞珠那特有的,高辨识度的气息,一直是所有喜爱波尔多葡萄酒人脑海中最熟悉的香气。
那么一款经典的波尔多怎能少了赤霞珠独有的黑加仑和黑醋栗香呢?

Bordeaux is one of the most famous area in the world due to the quantity of grand crue and also big named like chateau Lafitte chateau mouton. Bordeaux is a perfect area for growth wine, firstly due to the geographical situation and du to the diversity of soil. Due to a light summer (not more than 28°C) and a pleasant winter (never under 3°C) and an appropriate wind, the wine growing exist since a long time. It was bringing by the Romain in 56 BC. The expansion of Bordeaux wine started in 1154 when Henry II Plantagenet husband of Alenior d’Aquitaine become king of England. Bordeaux was the first exporter of wine in England. After the phyloxera crisis, Bordeaux winegrower and seller decide to change their way to produce and try to make better wine with less quantity and not produce a lot.



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