寻酒记之阿尔萨斯拜勒酒庄

拜勒酒庄的阿尔萨斯琼瑶浆，是去年我们常驻巴黎的选酒师Doris，在阿尔萨斯一年一度的酒展上面发现的，她觉得这家酒庄的性价比非常高，从去年开始就向我推荐。然后我们一起把这款琼瑶浆与之前的那款做了对比，惊喜地发现，无论是在香气复杂度还是持久力以及平衡感浓郁度方面都比之前那款要优秀，而价格却相差甚微。

Alsace Gewurztraminer at Bayer Winery was discovered by Doris, our resident sommelier in Paris last year, at the annual wine show in Alsace. She felt that the price of this winery was very high, from last year. I will recommend it to me at the beginning. Then we compared this Gewurztraminer with the previous one, and found that it is better than the previous one in terms of aroma complexity, endurance and balance richness, but the price is very different. 

Doris之前去酒庄的时候，经常会遇到一些葡萄酒大师或者是一些法国的酒评家，都会带着朋友去那边买酒，因为他们家的酒典型性非常强，非常能代表产区的风土。

When Doris went to the winery, he often met some wine masters or some French wine critics who would bring friends to buy wine there because their wines are very typical and can represent the production area. Terroir.

另外，这款酒也是在巴黎的一些餐厅比较畅销一款酒，但是这个酒庄却不愿意出口。首先是因为酒庄每年产量很小，其次，因为酒庄在当地本身就很有名，而且这款酒的性价比极高；再加上阿尔萨斯这个地理位置比较特别，它正好是在德国和比利时交界的地方，所以基本上每天都会有络绎不绝的人驱车前来酒庄买酒，这么强大的购买力已经足以支撑酒庄的年产量，有的时候在甚至供不应求，何谈出口。

In addition, this wine is also a popular wine in some restaurants in Paris, but this winery is not willing to export. The first is because the winery produces very little each year, and secondly, because the winery is famous in the local area, and the price of this wine is extremely high; plus the geographical location of Alsace is special, it happens to be in Germany and Belgium. The place where the border is bordered, so basically every day there are people who are driving around to come to the winery to buy wine. Such a strong purchasing power is enough to support the annual output of the winery. Sometimes it is even in short supply, so talk about export.

Doris前期去和酒庄沟通了很多次，希望能够让酒庄分一些配额给我们，但是酒庄始终没有同意。今年四月份的时候，我和Doris又一起亲自去和酒庄沟通，非常真诚地和酒庄介绍了乐品佰馥的理念，我们只做法国精品酒，去寻找那些真正代表产区风土，而且有具有很高的性价比，并且是传承百年以上的非常优质的酒庄，推荐给我们中国的消费者们。

少庄主酒庄终于被我们的执着打动，也非常认同我们的价值观，最后酒决定给我们一年600瓶的配额。

Doris went to the winery many times in the early stage, hoping to let the winery give us some quota, but the winery never agreed. Then in April of this year, I and Doris personally went to communicate with the winery. I sincerely introduced the concept of music to the winery. We only do French fine wines to find those who truly represent the region. And there are very high quality wineries with high cost performance, and are more than 100 years old, recommended to our Chinese consumers.
The Shaozhuang Master Winery was finally impressed by our persistence and also very much in recognition of our values. Finally, the wine decided to give us a quota of 600 bottles a year.

阿尔萨斯位于法国的东北角，与德国相邻。产区西边是著名的孚日山脉，东边则是莱茵河，这条曲折的莱茵河正好成为了德法天然的国土分界线。

Alsace is located in the northeast corner of France, adjacent to Germany. To the west of the production area is the famous Vosges Mountains, and to the east is the Rhine. This winding Rhine is just the natural boundary between Germany and France.

从文化上说，阿尔萨斯是德国文化与拉丁文化交集最密集的地区，阿尔萨斯地区曾两次归于德国之手，一次是1870年到1918年，另一次是1940年到1944年。但从更久的历史和现实人们的生活方式来看，阿尔萨斯属于德国文化范畴，当地很多菜式、建筑都继承自德国文化。

Culturally speaking, Arthas is the most densely populated area between German culture and Latin culture. The Alsace region has twice been attributed to Germany, one from 1870 to 1918 and the other from 1940 to 1944. However, from the longer history and the lifestyle of the real people, Arthas belongs to the German culture. Many local dishes and architectures are inherited from German culture.

Alsace is a cool continental climate, with long and dry autumns, thanks to the Vosges Mountains blocking the rain-rich winds blowing from the west, making Arthas the driest area of France. The most popular grape variety here is Gewürztraminer, with plenty of sunshine and a windy micro-climate that makes the wine ripe and ripe, with fresh acidity and refined structure.

阿尔萨斯的酒农更乐意将葡萄种植于陡峭的斜坡上，这样能更好地采光以及避开寒冷的气流。阿尔萨斯地区地质结构复杂，土壤类型十分丰富。较高的山坡上土壤贫瘠，以花岗岩、片麻岩、片岩、火山岩、黏土为主；而山脚下多以石灰岩、砂岩、黏土、泥灰土为主；平原地区最重要的土壤为冲积土。不同的土壤类型也造就出不同的葡萄酒风格，一般黏土、泥灰土地区出品的葡萄酒风格更为饱满、浓郁；而石灰岩、砂岩地区出品的葡萄酒风格更为轻盈、优雅，结构更加明晰；片岩、片麻岩、石灰岩地区出品的葡萄酒则更容易展现出矿物风味。

Alsace wine growers are more willing to plant the grapes on steep slopes to better illuminate and avoid cold air currents. The Alsace region has a complex geological structure and a rich soil type. On the higher slopes, the soil is barren, mainly granite, gneiss, schist, volcanic rock and clay. At the foot of the mountain, limestone, sandstone, clay and marl are mostly dominant; the most important soil in the plain is alluvial soil. Different soil types also create different wine styles. The wines produced in clay and marl soils are more full and rich in style; while the limestone and sandstone areas are lighter, more elegant and more structured; schist, tablets Wines from the gneiss and limestone regions are more likely to exhibit mineral flavors.